Chemical Forums
Specialty Chemistry Forums => Citizen Chemist => Topic started by: billnotgatez on April 02, 2012, 07:47:10 PM
-
Mead
For my next project, I am going to brew mead. Then I am going to analyze the results.
Mead is a beverage made with honey. I have been reading about the brewing process and think I have a handle on it. As I go along I will post here with insights and results.
I am lucky in that there is a local brewing supply house nearby and was able to procure a mead brewing kit. In addition to the reading I have done, the supply house has staff that I can ask questions of should the need arise.
So this is the kick off post for my project and I plan to learn and share the chemistry of brewing here.
Later,
Bill
-
Polish regional and traditional products registered by the European Commission
Traditional Speciality Guaranteed
Staropolski miód pitny półtorak—Old-Polish mead variety
Staropolski miód pitny dwójniak—Old-Polish mead variety
Staropolski miód pitny trójniak—Old-Polish mead variety
Staropolski miód pitny czwórniak—Old-Polish mead variety
http://pl.wikipedia.org/wiki/P%C3%B3%C5%82torak_(mi%C3%B3d_pitny)
-
You probably already know this, but for the junior chemists everywhere, the best analytical instrument to have for alcohol fermentation is a hydrometer. (http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/hydrom.asp) And being sure you use it before, during and after fermentation. You can see how environmental effects are changing the rate of fermentation, and make good predictions based on your past and current notes, about the status of your ferment. I'm a little lazy in that regard, but wines are more forgiving, because fruits provide a better nutrient environment, so its less critical.
-
Hand held refractometer (http://www.refractometer.pl/hand-held-refractometer) comes to mind as well.
-
Hand held refractometer comes to mind as well.
Well, those are better. But a little bit pricy for home use. But if you have one, they're a quick way to check.
-
You can buy used ones on eBay for $20, and decent new ones for $50. Slightly more expensive than hydrometers but still acceptable by my book.
-
I got a hydrometer for ~8 USD, but the refractometer seems like a nice item to add to my goodies.
The below link has them but seem pricey.
http://www.ibrew.com.au/html/spirits/alcohol%20test%20equipment%20.html
Also would a pH tester be a good thing to have as well?
I did get the testing liquid.
-
Titration to accurately determine the acid level is very useful for the production of wines, the initial acid level in fruit is very variable. I know that honey provides some acid, but probably not so much that it makes a difference. A fermented beverage like wine or mead needs some acid, to help yeast grow properly, to inhibit the initial growth of bacteria, and because the final acidity adds complexity. Without added acid, wine and mead taste insipid -- water + trace of sugar + alcohol <> water + trace of sugar + alcohol + acid. One is kool-aid + vodka, the other is wine or mead.
-
I know Titration is good but I would rather have a meter of some sort.
Suggestions?
-
Any thoughts on these 3 pH meters
Oakton 35423-10 Ph Tester EcoTestr Ph 2 $49
Hanna Instruments Hi 98103 Checker Ph Tester with Replaceable Electrode $23
Milwaukee PH600AQ Ph Tester with 1 Point Manual Calibration $17
-
The recipes I read for making wines tend to rely on titration, either with an indicator, or a pH meter, to determine "equivalents of NaOH" needed to neutralize the fruit juice. From that number, the recipe tells you how much "acid mix" to add to properly balance the wine. I don't see many recipes that use pH of the juice to determine the acid to add. Like I said before, acid balance is pretty important to getting the proper final flavor.
-
During fermentation of honey always there is problem of lacking acidity unless someone obtains acetic acid.
-
The kit contains LD Carlson Company 6120A ACID BLEND Blend of tartaric, malic and citric acids 2 oz.
The recipe calls for 1 tsp for a gallon of mead.
I would be using the pH meter to check at various times to learn about the process.
I am leaning towards getting
Hanna Instruments Hi 98103 Checker Ph Tester with Replaceable Electrode $23
-
That's a common source for acid addition to juice for wine. Chemically, we understand that those acids have different pKa's, and will lose a proton under different circumstances. But that's not the whole story: according to oenophiles, each acid has a different affect on taste.
Citric adds "brightness", its more commonly found in citrus fruits, and adds tartness that we expect from lemons, for example. Malic acid is supposed to give a "rounder" more mellow type of acidity, the type we associate with apples. Tartaric acid is pretty much only found in grapes. Adding tartaric acid adds "vinosity" -- it reminds us of other wines so what we're drinking tastes "correct." Its supposedly a milder acid, and, since sodium potassium tartrate is less soluble in wine, drops out as the fermentation proceeds. This allows the must to be more acidic at the start, when the yeast really needs it, then traces of sodium and potassium ions can remove some.
Again, I don't know of any recipes that call for a certain pH, or call for titrating the pH down with acid mix. I had heard some basic recipes for people who can't determine the acid level that the must should taste like lemonade. Properly made, nicely sweet, properly tart, lemonade. Of course, trying to figure the recipe out that way, instead of actually testing the acid level of the juice can't be easy. But, once you have your diluted honey and acid mix, taste it. See if you don't agree that its the perfect mix of sweet and sour.
-
I decided to start with a standard kit with the intent of leaning the basics first.
The Kit I acquired was the Vintner's Best 1 Gallon Wine Making Equipment Kit.
* 2 Gallon Bucket with Lid
* Winemakers Recipe Handbook
* 1 Gallon jug & 38mm Screw Cap
* 5' of tubing & shut-off clamp
* 3 piece Airlock (econolock?)
* Coarse Straining Bag
* Easy Clean Cleanser
* Sodium Campden Tablets
* Active Freeze Dried Wine Yeast
* Mini Auto Siphon
We exchanged the yeast for another type
* Red Star Pasteur Red (active dry wine yeast)
We added the following items
* Yeast Energizer (Crosby & Baker Ltd.)
* Yeast Nutrient (LD Carlson Co.)
* Acid Blend (citric, malic, tartaric)(LD Carlson Co.)
* Dutch Gold Pure Honey from Blueberry Blossoms
* Strip Thermometer (permometer)
* #6800 Triple Scale Beer and Wine Hydrometer
I also got a Wine acid test kit (Crosby & Baker Ltd.) containing
* standard Sodium Hydroxide Solution
* acid indicator solution
* calibrated syringe
* test tube
* full instructions
I am thinking of buying the following
* digital pH meter
* refractometer
in which case the Wine acid test kit and Hydrometer are redundant.
-
* 3 piece Airlock (econolock?)
During the early fermentation, the three piece is nice, to let gas escape rapidly. However, when the fermentation slows, you may want a bubbler-type airlock, so you can see how the fermentation is going. You can count rate of bubble release to see how the fermentation is slowing, and you can observe it like a manometer -- when the fluid level in the bubbler backs up, you know gas has redissolved, and fermentation stopped. Mead can ferment very slowly after an initial burst of fermentation because the environment isn't as optimal for yeast as grape juice is.
Nutrient and energizer are particularly important for mead fermentation. Yeast needs those micro-nutrients to grow healthy. Soon, it will be in a very unforgiving environment -- as sugar decreases, and alcohol increases, and other waste products accumulate. You'll want the yeast healthy from the start ... they only reproduce under aerobic conditions. Once they exhaust the oxygen, only the existing population will continue the ferment. 'Course, some mead aficionados dislike adding any chemical additives, even nutrients, and say they can taste additives.
On that subject, it brings up a who other "holy war" topic. Will you boil your diluted honey, to precipitate trace proteins and sterilize your diluted must, or will you try to retain volatile components by just dissolving the honey in water and starting the ferment? But in that case, what if something else gets hold of your must first? You can get some odd flavors from wild yeasts and bacteria, even if your yeast eventually wins out.
P.S. What do you have to sanitize your equipment?
-
Below is the recipe I got from the brewers shop for my first mead and I have some issues with it.
So I am going to call them up.
Recipe
Mead - 1 Gallon
2 pounds of honey
1 tsp of yeast nutrient
1 tsp of acid blend
? of yeast energizer ( I put this in - not in recipe)
1 packet of champagne yeast
Boil honey, nutrient and acid blend for 5 minutes in 1 quart of water.
Skim off any froth.
Pour into ferment bucket
Top off to 1 gallon.
Cool to 80 F degrees.
Add yeast.
Ferment 2 weeks.
Rack to secondary (gallon jug).
Let mead sit until clear, 2 to 3 months.
Bottle, Age at least 4 months.
-------------
First issue is why they did not put in the amount of energizer?
(my answer is - the kit is general and not for just simple mead)
Why did they not say to start with all equipment sanitized?
(my answer is - they assumed I would understand this based on the book that came with the kit and I think they mentioned it when I purchased the kit)
Why do they suggest boiling when it will cause loss of aromatic compounds?
(my answer is - they kept it simple for the first time and it will make passable mead)
Why they do not mention the airlock and bubbles.
(my answer is - They used a lower amount of honey than most recipes, so that the fermentation would end early thus letting them use a time based approach, which makes it simple for the first time)
I will let you know what answers I get from the brewer's shop.
-
@Arkcon
Your point about the bubbles is a good one, so I am going to get the other type of airlock and use it later in the brewing.
I am going to sanitize all equipment with the chemicals provided this first time. Maybe in the future I will rely on boiling equipment that can take it and use chemicals on the rest.
I think I am just going to heat the honey and water as low as I can and still kill the microbes before cooling and pitching the yeast. So no boiling of the mixture. Hopefully, this will keep some of the volatile components.
I think I am going to use bottled spring water but I can not trust that all the microbes are out of the honey. So I am going to pasteurize.
I am going to use all the nutrients the first time to be sure that all goes well. But, I can see modifying the process to use natural stuff like fruit to get the right acid environment.
I am going to research what actually is in those bottles of nutrient, acid, and energizer.