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Topic: Electrical insulation layer Method  (Read 2277 times)

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Offline susanna

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Electrical insulation layer Method
« on: June 12, 2015, 05:39:02 AM »
Hey guys, I'm searching for a galvanic or chemical method for producing an Electrical insulation layer on the surface from a metal but there's some requirements:

1. the layer on the surface shall be plotted for max. 1 min
2. the drying time may not exceed 1 min at max. 60 °C


Does anyone know any method like this?


Offline Enthalpy

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Re: Electrical insulation layer Method
« Reply #1 on: June 30, 2015, 05:35:20 AM »
On aluminium, tantalum, also titanium, niobium, chromium, you can grow an oxide layer by anodization. Fast enough?

On copper and supposedly others, you can deposit a lacker. It's done for transformer wire, decades of experience is available. Very strong, excellent and known insulating properties. The heat resistance distinguishes the insulator class, going through Peek to polyimide (180°C).

Conformal coatings exist for printed circuit boards. They insulate, protect from moist, and cost a bit. Made by parylene decomposition and local lukewarm recomposition as a polymer. Fast enough?

As a gut feeling, it must take months and years to stabilize the process, so subcontracting must be better for one-time needs.

EDIT:
FYI note -  lacker is a noun that is a variant spelling of lacquer

« Last Edit: June 30, 2015, 05:45:09 AM by billnotgatez »

Offline Enthalpy

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Re: Electrical insulation layer Method
« Reply #2 on: July 02, 2015, 11:48:35 AM »
I checked Parylene from the company "Diamon-MT", and usual deposition speed is like 5µm/h, not so good for you. Coat many parts in parallel?

More possibilities, faster:

If the shape of the conducting part permits it, just wrap it with a hot polymer film. Near-cylindrical parts can be covered with a sleeve, near-flat ones with two flat films and so on. Vacuum brings the film on contact with the part, heat lets it adhere with the proper materials.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermoforming

For intricate shapes, you might consider a UV curing resin, the ancestor being MMA that polymerizes into PMMA. Dip the part in the liquid resin, expose to light, repeat if necessary. The curing time depends only on light intensity. You can add short fibres (whiskers) to the liquid resin for improved impact resistance, useful with PMMA, and maybe add plasticizers.

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